No way, San Jose – California Highway 1 road trip

There are plenty of ways to travel between San Francisco and Los Angeles. But there is really only one way suitable for a round the world adventure like this – a road trip down California’s iconic Highway 1. In total Highway 1 runs some 1000km from Leggett in the north to Dana Point south of LA. But the most revered section (and shorter stretch, given we had just recently driven across the continent and tempers were beginning to fray) hugs the spectacular Big Sur coastline south of San Francisco. It was here that we joined it, beginning in San Jose.

Do you know the way to San Jose?

Certainly we did, although we chose to spend only a day here before pressing on to the bigger tickets closer to the coast. And spent the vast majority of that time at The Tech Interactive. This is a very hands on science and technology experience. There is a lot there aimed at kids but in reality there is also plenty to engage adults too, and we all had a fantastic time. It is divided into thematic sections such as health, the environment, cyber etc. Each area has a signature interactive challenge but also several other exhibits to get stuck into. Adrenaline junkie Rafe particularly enjoyed designing his own rollercoaster, checking it was suitable for the forces a human body could withstand and then riding the course in a simulator.

Without doubt the highlight was the Climb the Cascade challenge involving the construction of machines to get balls up the mountain. Hard hats were donned and many different contraptions built, tested and adjusted to fling balls as high as possible. Jim attracted many lols from other engineering groups as he built a long crane and tipped the ball onto the top of the mountain without any actual mechanism.

After many hours in the interactive halls we then went into the adjacent IMAX to watch a documentary about dinosaurs in the Antarctic. Given our kids propensity for the Jurassic, this guaranteed it would be a perfect day.

An honourable mention needs to go to Whispers Cafe in San Jose. We were so happy to come across this independent place doing a great job. Highly recommended for treat breakfast and bottomless coffees!

Oh Santa Cruz you’re not that far!

Home to wetsuit pioneer Jack O’Neil, Santa Cruz is synonymous with surfing and the cool beach vibe of coastal southern California. Apparently, three princes from Hawaii visited the town in 1885, got themselves some boards made of the local redwood, found the waves to be excellent and surfing was oficially brought to the US mainland. Alongside surfers, bathers and sunseekers, the wide sandy beach at Santa Cruz is home to many volleyball nets. A passing seal looked on as a regional competition was played out, and Rafe and Odessa dug deep holes and paddled for the best part of an afternoon.

All this would be glorious in itself, but what Santa Cruz is best known for is its boardwalk. This funfair complete with rides and snack stalls runs longitudinally along the back of the beach and has been entertaining locals and visitors since 1907. Throughout the day crowds ride the coasters, attempt to win massive cuddly toys which they then regret carrying for the rest of the day, etc. Tickets to ride are not cheap during the day but after 5pm there is a great deal offering unlimited rides for a flat fee. We did the only reasonable thing, which was to spend the day doing beach things and then retire to the fun of the fair for the evening.

The wide range of rides suited both Rafe and Odessa. It was noticeable that Dessa had got bolder as she grew older since Busch Gardens – she loved the Crazy Surf ‘washing machine’ ride for example, which only moments earlier had caused one unfortunate rider to be revisited by their lunch! Rafe found plenty of thrill rides to take on, with Fireball, Typhoon and Shockwave all getting several outings. The end result – very happy, very tired kids.

Only a couple of kilometres north beyond the suburbs of Santa Cruz, Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park is home to some of the oldest and tallest trees in the world. This spectacular natural setting provided a welcome antidote to the bustle of the boardwalk.

The visitor centre did an excellent job of introducing us to the ecosystem and all it supports so that we knew what we were seeing as we followed the trails. It was incredible to think that the rings in a slice of a fallen trunk had borne witness to so many historic events over the thousand or so years it stood tall – the birth of Christ, signing of Magna Carta, the rise and fall of Incas and Aztecs, Columbus stumbling upon America for example. The park itself has also played its part in history with several of the early pioneers sheltering in the hollows of the redwood trunks towards the end of their journey westward.

Big views and big sea lions on the Big Sur Coast

The stretch of Highway 1 through Big Sur is what has made the road famous around the world. Wide angle views of deep blue sea, rocky cliffs and outcrops, with incredible beaches for good measure. And of course, some phenomenal early 1930’s open spandrel arch bridges representing some of the finest concrete engineering you will find anywhere in the world.

Beyond the physical coastline, the second thing this area is famous for is the colonies of northern elephant seals. A once thriving population was thought to have been driven to extinction by the late 19th century by unregulated hunting. In 1892 a handful were found living on the small Guadeloupe Island off the Mexican coast. Now protected, they are once again thriving. By our own unscientific experience we would agree, as we were able to see plenty on the beaches around San Simeon.

Speaking with the conservationists at the Elephant Seal Visitor Center (yes of course they have one), at this time of year the big males are just starting to come ashore. Although we felt we saw plenty on the beaches, apparently the population increases even more deeper into the summer season.

Cambria

We feel an honourable mention is due to the small town of Cambria, a little way south of the seals. We only spent a couple of nights here. One local wondered why we had come by, suggesting that it is somewhere you need to deliberately seek out. But it has a lot going for it, and real character too. You could easily base yourself there to explore the Big Sur coast, see the seals, visit wineries, play on the beach and so on. Just a few minutes up the road is Moonrock Beach, so called as you can easily find small sparkly white pebbles of chalcedony on the beach, along with a wide array of fascinating colours of different rocks and minerals. For Rafe and Odessa, the big draw of this beach turned out to be the vast amount of driftwood – perfect for building shelters.

With Cambria and the natural wonders of the Big Sur coast in our rear view, we headed to LA which was to be our gateway to the East.