A change of pace: a week with kids on Koh Chang, Thailand

After a great time visiting friends in Singapore and a packed first two months on the road, we were looking for somewhere to stay a little longer in one place; preferably somewhere that was kind on the budget too. We knew we wanted to pay Thailand a visit at some point, and the island of Koh Chang came up as somewhere that might work for us as our first Thai destination on this trip. It seemed it could be a relaxing place with a ‘tropical island’ adventurous vibe which the kids were keen for, and yet with some potential activities available too because none of us like to hang by a pool for too long. It is fair to say Koh Chang has delivered exactly what we were looking for, and then some.

We didn’t give it any thought before we got here, but we were on Koh Chang during the ‘green season’. This means it rains (varying from a light shower some days, to biblical scenes on other days where the local wildlife starts walking two by two), but the conditions were perfect for us. A pretty steady 24 to 28 degrees was great for us and the kids after the 40+ of Arabia. It also meant everywhere was even more tranquil than usual outside high season.

The island of Koh Chang is around 30km long and 9km at its widest, situated off the eastern coast of Thailand near the border with Cambodia. It has a reputation for being less developed than the likes of Phuket, Samui and Krabi. Within that, the western side with its wider expanses of beach are much more lively than the eastern side.

Not only was it the green season, we also coincided with the back end of super typhoon Noru passing through (which hit the Philippines and Vietnam pretty hard, during the same period as Hurricane Ian struck Florida, which brought additional rain, a breeze and unusually high tides. None of which bothered us in the slightest, and the weather cleared up the second half of the week – settling into the more traditional “stunning day with evening downpour” pattern.

Elephants, waterfalls and wildlife

We spent the first couple of days relaxing in our new surroundings before hiring a car to explore. Sticking mainly to the eastern side of the island we headed south. Barely a few kilometres and an unpromising road away we took to Khlong Nonsi waterfall for a couple of hours of exploring and swimming. Comparisons with the likes of Wadi Bani Khalid would be unfair. This is an altogether different proposition in the forest but still great fun and a valuable change of scene for the kids.

Koh Chang means elephant island. Not because elephants are indigenous, but because it is said to be shaped like an elephant’s ear. There are several places on the island that keep a small herd. Odessa in particular was keen to see some elephants – who wouldn’t be? So we took local advice about where was best and visited Klong Son elephant sanctuary. We had a chance to wade in and wash the great beasts in the river, although Rafe preferred to just have a swim about. The highlight for the kids was feeding them bananas and sugar cane, their trunks showing remarkable dexterity to sniff out and grip each of the small bananas. To top off a memorable morning a coconut-based gateaux appeared which was quickly set upon by both our kids and those of the owner of the elephant sanctuary.

Being densely forested for the most part, there were plenty of encounters with wildlife throughout our island time. Surprisingly few birds made an appearance but there was an abundance of enormous butterflies flapping gently around. Twice we came face to face with squads of monkeys. The first time was on the drive down to the far south east, where we also had a great time exploring the mangroves on a boardwalk (we’d recommend this, and cheap at just 20baht for the parking). The second monkey experience occurred during a foray to the west of the island, where we also came across an enormous pig nonchalantly crossing the road while being chased by it’s apparent owner (the kids dubbed him/her ‘Fat Pigbert’ in honour of Fat Leonard who we read had recently evaded the US Navy before being recaptured in Venezuela).

A mini drama unfolded during breakfast one morning. The evening before, we had experienced the heaviest and most sustained rains of our stay. The stream near the hotel was therefore flowing strongly out to sea carrying with it all manner of foliage. As we chowed down on our morning fruit bowl something flitting across the shoreline shallows caught our eye. A snake, a long one! It swam remarkably quickly across the water, up the beach and under a nearby tree root. The commotion drew Ning out onto the beach to investigate. We couldn’t hear anything but she picked it up right away – the rattle of a cobra. Swiftly and with incredible nonchalance the gardener was called upon to coax it out and away with the swish of a broom handle, and it was gone into the jungle as rapidly as it had appeared.

Memorial to a 1941 non-WW2 naval battle?

I take a casual interest in recent military history, but it is to my shame that I’d not heard of the Franco-Thai War Oct 1940-Jan1941. Surely every country in the world, presumably including the French, would be preoccupied entirely with the prosecution of the second world war during 1941? It seems that the Thais felt the fall of France and the Vichy French government might be distracted, offering an opportunity to reclaim some territory that had been long in dispute. Several land and air skirmishes culminated with a Vichy French expeditionary fleet jumping the Thai Navy off the south coast of Koh Chang – the Battle of Koh Chang.

We stumbled upon a memorial to this naval engagement having missed the turning for Long Beach. Instead we carried on a little further and found this quiet little piece of sand. There was a small kayak rental operation there, alongside what looked like a curiously incomplete lecture hall in the shape of a ship’s superstructure.

Where we stayed made all the difference – Amber Sands

The east side of the island facing the mainland is much quieter, less developed. The west coast, especially the northern two thirds, are much more built up and touristy. Two different propositions depending what you are looking for. We were seeking the secluded tropical island vibe so we went for the east coast. We can’t quite remember how we landed on Amber Sands but we also can’t imagine a better place to kick back and relax. One of just seven little villas surrounding a pool, right on the beach with a swing dangling from a branch. Ning in charge in the kitchen (and if we’re honest, just in charge generally!) producing excellent Thai food at good prices, and an honesty bar. What’s not to like?

The pool had an inflatable orca in it which occupied the kids for days at a time. They chose, without prompting, to name the orca Pete ‘Maverick’ Mitchell after the Top Gun lead character. Jim has never been more proud.

How we did it

For all of its remote desert island vibe (especially in low season on the east side of the island) Koh Chang is simple to visit. Being a small island it is also easy to explore once there. We took a flight from Singapore into Bangkok. From there we had options. We could have flown down to Trat (Bangkok Airways) and gone to the island from there. Equally there are regular buses and vans that run from Bangkok to Trat and ferry terminal. We stayed a night at Bangkok Airport (the Novotel there surprisingly pleasant with a nice pool) and arranged a transfer through Amber Sands from there straight to the island the next day. This worked out much cheaper than flying Bangkok to Trat, and although 4.5 to 5 hours sounds a long time to be on the road, once you take into account clearing airport security at both ends and transfer to the ferry, its not much longer by road. Note that the last ferry is at 1830hrs.