Florida, USA: The magic Keys

The Florida Keys. A string of connected and dreamy islands forming the southernmost part of the continental United States*. We knew little more about the Keys prior to visiting, other than we suspected it may be a good place to get a little relaxing beach time after the jungle-bound temples, lakes and mountains of Guatemala. Certainly it was relaxing and there were beaches, but we found plenty more to the Florida Keys and we had a great time.

* The southernmost point of the complete United States is actually a long way away, in Hawaii.

Beach life

It seems that while dreamy, the Florida Keys isn’t necessarily known for its abundant beaches. Being coral-based, the chain of islands tends to be known more for its fishing, diving, general marine activities, its ‘dangerous’ proximity to Cuba, and of course as the overwintering destination of those from the northern states. But we were determined to get onto the sand and we had no trouble finding a couple of really good and picturesque beaches. The first was Sombrero Beach in Marathon, just a short jog west from our digs. We were there on the weekend and although not too busy there were plenty of locals out walking dogs, grilling meats and generally living their best lives in the sun. For us the focal point was as ever the decent playpark.

A few days later during our mission west along the island chain to reach the southernmost point of the continental US, we came across the pint-sized but glorious Clarence S. Higgs Memorial Beach. We hadn’t really set out looking for a beach. We were looking for a playpark as always, and it has one of these too. But this beach nestled away in a residential area had everything we needed so we spent all our Key West time there instead.

The sun was strong so we hired a parasol from the stereotypically laid back gent in the shed at the back, and settled in. We soon noticed a few metres along the beach from us a confident guy tanning his cheeks in the tiniest of leopard print budgie smugglers. This sight had the kids amused as real life was now mirroring one of their current favourite playlist songs. Beyond offering shade and tanning cheeks, this picturesque beach also had a swimming platform extending into the ocean and a homely bar / restaurant. The swimming platform usefully took us beyond the few metres of seaweed resting at the shoreline (something other beaches seem to have along the keys), and the kids passed the time swimming and jumping from the platform (contrary to plenty of signage). The restaurant dealt efficiently with the ensuing hunger in the traditional post-swim manner – with chips.

After a great afternoon of beaching we were off to find the southernmost point. We found the painted buoy marking the spot and got the required photos. There is some controversy though as it appears the spot we visited might actually be an imposter, and the real southernmost point is a few hundred metres further west along the coast. We suspect the challenge is that the actual southernmost point sits within the grounds of part of the Key West Naval Air Station, right next to a large surveillance radome. Hordes of tourists might not be welcomed there, and we weren’t about to attempt to infiltrate the base ourselves.

Flying high for a breathtaking perspective of the Keys

Florida Keys / Marathon airport was just up the road from where we were staying. It had first got our attention when we noticed several military blackhawk helicopters lined up alongside the multitude of private jets. We since learnt that the blackhawks are seconded there as part of the mission to detect and collect people and ‘goods’ that attempt the crossing from Havana some 100km to the south. Beyond the curious military activity, the second thing that attracted our interest was the small volunteer run Marathon Air Museum on the site. It may be small, but it is packed with interesting military aviation exhibits and blessed with a very patient volunteer attendant to answer questions. Rafe spent plenty of time on the flight simulator practising for his flying wings, and there is always a certain buzz walking out onto the apron to look at the vintage aircraft while modern-day planes take off and land nearby.

It is tempting at this point to say we now succumbed to marketing. And we did. But with the whiff of aviation fuel already in our nostrils and dreams of soaring above the clouds already on Rafe’s mind, the marketing really didn’t have to twist our arms too hard. We noticed a leaflet offering scenic flights in a light aircraft, and while clearly not cheap the price wasn’t too bad for our budget and made it too good an opportunity to miss. So it was that after a brief interlude to allow for lunch and some unspecified fettling of the aircraft, we were trundling down the runway and climbing into the air. With the door open for some additional ventilation on this hot afternoon.

Although only a short flight we were able to properly grasp the make-up of the string of islands from the air. We were also able to get a real sense of the long stretch of the aptly named 7 Mile Bridge linking Marathon with Big Pine further southwest. We also got a better understanding of why this area is so popular with boaters who gather around the many outlying coral atolls to fish, sunbathe or both. As we rounded American Shoal Lighthouse we were able to appreciate the coral base of Keys as it sits on the southern edge of the Keys reef warning shipping to keep clear. We also exchanged cheery waves there with the gaggle of leisurely boaters moored here for diving and fishing at the edge of the reef. An unforgettable experience.

Learning about the dolphins

Who didn’t love Flipper? It turns out Flipper has passed Rafe and Odessa by. But not us! And so the Dolphin Research Center was a must visit. We had no idea how extensive it would be with numerous large pens housing rescued and recovering dolphins. Fortunately for us as well as caring for dolphins, they also like to put on demonstrations of the recovery work, as well as some fun play. This involved exactly what you’d expect – lots of somersaults etc.

As well as the dolphins, and again unexpectedly, the rescued parrots and other birds were interesting to observe. Dessa especially appreciated the talking parrots and watching them take a shower. It was a great way to spend a morning.